A year ago, Rolex introduced the Perpetual 1908, a remarkable watch that replaced the discontinued Cellini collection, offering a fresh, refined alternative for those seeking a classic dress watch. The 1908 pays tribute to the year of the brand’s founding by Hans Wilsdorf, marking a significant departure from the trend towards sports models seen across the industry. While many watchmakers have embraced sportier designs, Rolex chose to refine its expertise, demonstrating its mastery in creating the ultimate time-only dress watch.
The 1908 is a testament to Rolex’s commitment to elevating the craft of watchmaking. With impeccable finishing that rivals the best in the industry, the model combines Rolex’s signature technical innovation with a heightened sense of artistry. Initially available in yellow and white gold, with silver and black dials, the Perpetual 1908 has now been elevated to an extraordinary new level. The Ref. 52506, executed in platinum – the most precious of metals – also boasts an engine-turned guilloché dial, making it one of the most striking and exclusive pieces in Rolex’s current collection.
Engine-Turned Guilloché Dial: A Masterclass in Craftsmanship
The Ref. 52506’s dial features a cool ice-blue hue, a signature of Rolex’s platinum models such as the platinum Daytona and Day-Date. However, it stands out due to its intricate rice-grain motif, executed using the traditional rose engine tool, making it the first Rolex watch in recent history to showcase a genuine engine-turned guilloché dial.
Guilloché, long celebrated as one of the most refined decorative arts in horology, is a rare sight in modern watchmaking. While many brands use simulations to replicate the effect, fake Rolex’s decision to create an authentic guilloché dial underscores its dedication to craftsmanship and its ambitions to position itself even more strongly in the luxury watch market. This move is reminiscent of the introduction of the Day-Date Emoji Puzzle, which featured Rolex’s first-ever champlevé enamel dial, marking a shift towards embracing artisanal methods.
The dial’s rice-grain pattern, often referred to as a fish-scale motif, radiates outward from the small seconds sub-dial, which is framed by circular graining. The minute track is delicately outlined by a crimped border, further enhancing the dial’s refined appearance. White gold, facetted baton indices and mirror-polished Arabic numerals offer subtle contrast, elevating the dial’s sophisticated yet understated character.
Despite the dial’s captivating pale blue color and dynamic pattern, the watch maintains an air of quiet elegance. Its “observatory” hands, inspired by the Breguet style, feature a unique triangular design at their tips and a straight minute hand, contributing to the watch’s dignified presence.
Slim, Elegant Design with Impressive Precision
The Perpetual 1908 Ref. 52506 has a 39mm platinum case that remains impressively slim at just 9.5mm thick, despite housing a self-winding movement. This sleek profile allows it to sit comfortably on the wrist, offering a refined sense of balance. The bezel is a standout feature, with its inner circumference slightly domed, while the outer edge is fluted. This design achieves a delicate balance – neither too pronounced nor overly subtle – enhancing the watch’s elegant appeal.
With a depth rating of 50 meters, the case is as functional as it is stylish, providing a level of versatility rarely seen in such sophisticated dress watches.
The Rolex Caliber 7140: Innovation in Motion
At the heart of the Perpetual 1908 Ref. 52506 lies the Rolex Caliber 7140, a self-winding movement offering a 66-hour power reserve. Running at 28,800 vibrations per hour, it features the Chronergy escapement – a design that optimizes energy efficiency, improving accuracy and longevity. Unlike traditional Swiss lever escapements, the Chronergy’s narrower pallets and wider impulse surfaces allow for smoother energy transfer, reducing friction and increasing precision.
In an unexpected move, the Caliber 7140 utilizes Rolex’s Syloxi hairspring, a silicon-based component that offers superior durability and accuracy. Unlike the brand’s signature Parachrom Blue hairspring, the Syloxi is not designed for an overcoil but compensates with its remarkable stability and resistance to magnetic fields. This advancement further enhances the watch’s performance, making it a true chronometric marvel.
Rolex’s dedication to precision is further demonstrated by the movement’s rigorous testing. In addition to meeting the official COSC chronometer standards, each movement undergoes additional in-house testing to ensure accuracy within +/- 2 seconds per day, as per replica Rolex‘s Superlative Chronometer certification.
A distinctive element of the Caliber 7140 is its finishing. The movement’s 18k gold rotor features a sun-ray brushed finish, offering a luxurious aesthetic that contrasts with the typically more utilitarian tungsten rotors in Rolex’s other movements. The bridges are adorned with Rolex’s interpretation of the classic Geneva stripes, adding to the overall elegance and technical sophistication of the piece.
A watch for the Discerning Collector
The Perpetual 1908 Ref. 52506 in platinum, with its artisanal dial and cutting-edge movement, is a unique offering in the world of luxury horology. Combining classical elegance, innovative engineering, and exceptional craftsmanship, it is a watch that stands apart from the crowd. At CHF 29,600, it represents a compelling value in the high-end watch market, offering a rare blend of traditional luxury and modern technical prowess.
Technical Specifications:
Movement: Caliber 7140, 4Hz (28,800 vph), 66-hour power reserve
Functions: Center hour and minute hands, small seconds hand at 6 o’clock, hacking seconds for precise time setting
Case: 39mm, platinum, polished finish, water-resistant to 50m
Dial: Ice blue, engine-turned rice-grain pattern
Strap: Leather strap with folding clasp
